Parts fifteen and sixteen of the book "The Art ofPerf ume Making and Methods of Obtaining Plant Scents"
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| Parts fifteen and sixteen of the book "The Art of Perfume Making and Methods of Obtaining Plant Scents" |
SECTION XIV
ABSORBENT POWDERS.
- Wheat starch, 12 lbs.
- Orris-root powder, 2 lbs.
- Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz.
- " bergamot, 3/4 oz.
- " cloves, 2 drachms.
- Rose Face Powder.
- Wheat starch, 7 lbs.
- Rose Pink, 1/2 drachm.
- Otto of rose, 2 drachms.
- " santal, 2 "
Plain or Unscented Hair Powder
Blanc de Perle
The use of a white paint by actresses and dancers, is absolutely necessary; great exertion produces a florid complexion, which is incompatible with certain scenic effects, and requires a cosmetic to subdue it.
Madame V——, during her stage career, has probably consumed more than half a hundredweight of oxide of bismuth, prepared thus:—
- Strong liquid ammonia, 1/2 oz.
- Finest carmine, 1/4 oz.
- Rose-water, 1 pint.
- Esprit de rose (triple), 1/2 oz.
Place the carmine into a pint bottle, and pour on it the ammonia; allow them to remain together, with occasional agitation, for two days; then add the rose-water and esprit, and well mix. Place the bottle in a quiet situation for a week; any precipitate of impurities from the carmine will subside; the supernatant "Bloom of Roses" is then to be bottled for sale. If the carmine was perfectly pure there would be no precipitate; nearly all the carmine purchased from the makers is more or less sophisticated, its enormous price being a premium to its adulteration.
Carmine cannot be manufactured profitably on a small scale for commercial purposes; four or five manufacturers supply the whole of Europe! M. Titard, Rue Grenier St. Lazare, Paris, produces, without doubt, the finest article; singular enough, however, the principal operative in the establishment is an old Englishman.
"The preparation of the finest carmine is still a mystery, because, on the one hand, its consumption being very limited, few persons are engaged in its manufacture, and, upon the other, the raw material being costly, extensive experiments on it cannot be conveniently made."—Dr. Ure.
In the Encyclopédie Roret will be found no less than a dozen recipes for preparing carmine; the number of formulæ will convince the most superficial reader that the true form is yet withheld.
Analysis has taught us its exact composition; but a certain dexterity of manipulation and proper temperature are indispensable to complete success.
Are prepared of different shades by mixing fine carmine with talc powder, in different proportions, say, one drachm of carmine to two ounces of talc, or one of carmine to three of talc, and so on. These rouges are sold in powder, and also in cake or china pots; for the latter the rouge is mixed with a minute portion of solution of gum tragacanth. M. Titard prepares a great variety of rouges. In some instances the coloring-matter of the cochineal is spread upon thick paper and dried very gradually; it then assumes a beautiful green tint. This curious optical effect is also observed in "pink saucers." What is known as Chinese book rouge is evidently made in the same way, and has been imported into this country for many years.
The safflower is washed in water until the yellow coloring-matter is removed; the carthamine or color principle is then dissolved out by a weak solution of carbonate of soda; the coloring is then precipitated into the saucers by the addition of sulphuric acid to the solution.
Cotton wool and crape being colored in the same way are used for the same purpose, the former being sold as Spanish wool, the latter as Crépon rouge.
SECTION XV.
TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.
Tooth powders, regarded as a means merely of cleansing the teeth, are most commonly placed among cosmetics; but this should not be, as they assist greatly in preserving a healthy and regular condition of the dental machinery, and so aid in perfecting as much as possible the act of mastication. In this manner, they may be considered as most useful, although it is true, subordinate medicinal agents. By a careful and prudent use of them, some of the most frequent causes of early loss of the teeth may be prevented; these are, the deposition of tartar, the swelling of the gums, and an undue acidity of the saliva. The effect resulting from accumulation of the tartar is well known to most persons, and it has been distinctly shown that swelling of the substance of the gums will hasten the expulsion of the teeth from their sockets; and the action of the saliva, if unduly acid, is known to be at least injurious, if not destructive. Now, the daily employment of a tooth powder sufficiently hard, so as to exert a tolerable degree of friction upon the teeth, without, at the same time, injuring the enamel of the teeth, will, in most cases, almost always prevent the tartar accumulating in such a degree as to cause subsequent injury to the teeth; and a flaccid, spongy, relaxed condition of the gums may be prevented or overcome by adding to such a tooth powder, some tonic and astringent ingredient. A tooth powder containing charcoal and cinchona bark, will accomplish these results in most cases, and therefore dentists generally recommend such. Still, there are objections to the use of charcoal; it is too hard and resisting, its color is objectionable, and it is perfectly insoluble by the saliva, it is apt to become lodged between the teeth, and there to collect decomposing animal and vegetable matter around such particles as may be fixed in this position. Cinchona bark, too, is often stringy, and has a bitter, disagreeable taste. M. Mialhe highly recommends the following formula:—
Mialhe's Tooth Powder.
Sugar of milk, one thousand parts; lake, ten parts; pure tannin, fifteen parts; oil of mint, oil of aniseed, and oil of orange flowers, so much as to impart an agreeable flavor to the composition.
Alcohol, one thousand parts; genuine kino, one hundred parts; rhatany root, one hundred parts; tincture of balsam of tolu, two parts; tincture of gum benzoin, two parts; essential oil of canella, two parts; essential oil of mint, two parts; essential oil of aniseed, one part.
- Precipitated chalk, 1 lb.
- Powdered orris-root, 1/2 lb.
- Powdered camphor, 1/4 lb.
- Precipitated chalk, 1 lb.
- Starch Powder, 1/2 lb.
- Orris powder, 1/2 lb.
- Sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm.
- After sifting, it is ready for sale.
- Prepared Charcoal.
- Fresh-made charcoal in fine powder, 7 lbs.
- Prepared chalk, 1 lb.
- Orris-root, 1 lb.
- Catechu, 1/2 lb.
- Cassia bark, 1/2 lb.
- Myrrh, 1/4 lb.
- Sift.
- Peruvian Bark Powder.
- Peruvian bark in powder, 1/2 lb.
- Bole Ammoniac, 1 lb.
- Orris powder, 1 lb.
- Cassia bark, 1/2 lb.
- Powdered myrrh, 1/2 lb.
- Precipitated chalk, 1/2 lb.
- Otto of cloves, 3/4 oz.
Homœopathic Chalk.
Simple syrup, enough to form a paste.
SECTION XVI.HAIR WASHES.
Various preparations are used to assist in dressing the hair in any particular form. Some persons use for that purpose a hard pomatum containing wax, made up into rolls, called thence Baton Fixeteur. The little "feathers" of hair, with which some ladies are troubled, are by the aid of these batons made to lie down smooth. For their formula, see p. 224, 225.
Steep the gum in the water for a day or so. As it swells and forms a thick gelatinous mass, it must from time to time be well agitated. After about forty-eight hours' maceration it is then to be squeezed through a coarse clean linen cloth, and again left to stand for a few days, and passed through a linen cloth a second time, to insure uniformity of consistency; when this is the case, the otto of rose is to be thoroughly incorporated. The cheap bandoline is made without the otto; for colored bandoline, it is to be tinted with ammoniacal solution of carmine, i.e. Bloom of Roses. See p. 236.
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